IN 24HRS: London
Updated: 5d
Summary
How to see London in a day? The impossible question. Arriving from overseas most often means arriving at the expansive Heathrow Airport, located west of the city center. What is the city center? Well, that's not so objective. It depends on what you are into.
My guide to London will take you to some of the city's most iconic landmarks, as well as some lesser-known spots, making use of what the city does best: transit. Londoners will complain about their train and bus systems, but they don't know how good they have it. Few other cities in the world can even sniff the transit infrastructure London enjoys, which makes it the perfect place for a wide-reaching day itinerary.
Arrival and travel into the city
For the purposes of this post, you are arriving in the morning hours and plan to leave the same evening, or early the next day. Most inbound flights from the US touch down at Heathrow between 5am and 9am.
US passport holders must apply for the UK's ETA prior to arrival into the country. Make sure to do this a few days in advance, to avoid any last-minute hiccups. If you plan to travel through London with frequency (on airline staff benefits, etc), it would be wise to apply for the UK ETA without set travel plans, and make a calendar reminder to renew when the two year validity period is up.
With your approved ETA, in most cases, no more action is needed. Add your passport to your flight booking or reservation and check-in as normal. When you arrive at Heathrow, you should head straight for the automated e-gates. Most of my time spent in Heathrow in my 45+ visits has been spent walking, with the e-gates typically having little to no line, and taking a total of 15-30 seconds to use.
Whisk your way past the kiosks selling sim cards and tickets for the expensive Heathrow Express train, and head straight for the signs for trains to Central London. As with most cities outside the US, "downtown" is not a term used by the locals. But instead of seeing the typical "city center" verbiage, in London you'll hear "Central London." For most people, this refers to anything in Zone 1 (and sometimes Zone 2) on the London Underground.
When you arrive at the train station underneath Heathrow Airport, your best bet will be the Elizabeth Line train. This train runs on the same tracks at the quicker Heathrow Express, but will often run more frequently and open up doors for you to travel deeper into the city without changing to another train. Heathrow Express requires a separate ticket, while Elizabeth Line exists within the Oyster card tap to pay system.
Walk straight past the line of tourists at the ticket machine, and tap your credit/debit card of choice straight from your mobile wallet. The city caps transit fares at a set rate depending on time of day and distance of travel, so use the same card your entire visit. This way you'll benefit from the capped rate. Just note once you tap in, you can ONLY use Elizabeth Line. Your chance to choose Heathrow Express has passed.
A morning pick-me-up
While the Elizabeth Line allows you to travel straight under some of London's biggest attractions, you'll likely be tired and claustrophobic by the time you reach Paddington. Trains heading into London most mornings (including weekends) fill up as you get closer to Paddington. After your overnight flight from the US and time spent on the train holding on to your luggage amid the crowd of people, it's time to walk.
Get off at Paddington and take the escalators up to street level. Here you'll be greeted with no shortage of coffee and food options, both inside and outside the main train terminal. A personal favorite is Caffè Nero, found within the train hall. Get the Americano if you are looking for the equivalent of an American filter coffee.
Now comes time to lighten your load. I use the app called Bounce to locate luggage storage locations while on a quick 24hr or less trip. Let's assume you are heading back to Heathrow in the evening. Leaving your bag by Paddington will best situate you to keep a light load all the way to your departure back to the airport.
Find a shop or hotel on Bounce near Paddington, and reserve the day. It'll cost you about $8 USD. Once you've got your coffee and dropped your luggage, head through the train hall to the Circle and Hammersmith & City Line platforms to catch your next train. The Underground has multiple platforms underneath and surrounding Paddington, so make sure you follow the signs.
You'll take an eastbound train on either line just a few quick stops, to Great Portland Street. Remember to use the same credit/debit card in your mobile wallet when entering/exiting the tube as you did before.
After you arrive at Great Portland Street, add nearby Regent's Park to your mapping app. Coffee in hand, start your morning with a stroll north through the park. You'll want to follow signs for the Regent's Canal, located at the top of the park. A leisurely stroll should take you 20-25 minutes.
Once you arrive at the north end of the park, follow the Regent's Canal east, towards Camden Town. A 20 minute walk will put you at the famous Camden Market. Depending on how early you arrive into London, your experience in Camden Market will differ vastly. You will find peace and serenity on a walk through the market area at 9am, while you'll encounter something more equatable to organized chaos as lunchtime nears. Allow yourself 30-45 minutes to browse the shops that are open, before continuing onward.
Pick up the canal on the east side of the main road (Camden High Street), and continue your walk. You'll enjoy 30 minutes of neighborhood scenery, slowly escalating into larger developments as you near the Kings Cross St. Pancras area. Put "Coal Drops Yard" into your mapping app so you can exit the canal here. Here you'll find a bit of modernity in the presence of two historic train halls. You might choose to grab lunch in this area. A personal favorite is Dishoom, one of London's most iconic restaurants. Be prepared to wait if you arrive past noon.
Walking route through Regent's Park, Camden Town, and Coal Drops Yard
Afternoon along the river
Once you've had your fill, take a quick stroll through the historic St. Pancras Station train hall. Here, passengers depart for mainland Europe via the Eurostar. Lines often stretch around the station as passengers must go through the EU's new passport control procedures here prior to their train departure.
Find the entrance to the Thameslink trains. These trains depart underneath the main station hall. Take out your mobile wallet and remember to use the same card again. You'll be traveling on the UK's National Rail network, but staying in London your entire journey allows you the ability to travel under the same fare cap rules.
Find the next train heading SOUTH to London Blackfriars. Often trains heading to Brighton will take you where you need to go. Wait on the platform for about 10 minutes before boarding the quick 5-7 minute ride to the iconic glass-encased Blackfriars station perched on a bridge high above the River Thames.
Walk down the platform in the direction your train was traveling, to the south bank of the Thames. You can exit on either side of the river, so make sure you are heading the right way.
Exit and find your way to the path along the south bank of the Thames, heading east. You'll quickly approach the iconic Tate Modern. You won't find any Monet here. You may choose to enter the museum and take a walk around through some of the exhibits, if time permits. Entry is free but your day bag will be checked by security. Your brain will be in knots leaving the museum, trying to wrap your head around the deeper meaning of the many abstract exhibits.
Time for a pint. You'll find a number of pubs along the river, including one right outside the Tate. If the weather cooperates, enjoy your pint outside with views of the water before continuing your walk.
At this point you may want to put your next destination in a mapping app, as it's easy to get lost underneath the many bridges you'll traverse below along the Thames. You are heading for Borough Yards, a brand new development creatively built beneath the maze of rail bridges leaving the busy "London Bridge" train station. A stroll through the unique shopping mall will leave you at Borough Market. Here you'll find a never ending maze of unique food stalls and restaurants. This is a great place for an afternoon snack, and yes, another pint.
If you've been to London before, you might take the opportunity to skip this next attraction. A walk 15-20 minutes further down the south bank of the Thames from Borough Market will let you out at Tower Bridge. As late afternoon approaches, you may take the opportunity to enjoy some time on the city's most frequently visited attractions. Or not. As a regular London visitor, my ideal day continues without a run-in with the massive tourist crowds on the bridge.
An alternative is to enjoy the bridge from afar, taking it in near London's uniquely shaped City Hall building before continuing on with the day.
Once you've had your fix by the bridge (or directly after Borough Market), find your way to the "London Bridge" Underground station. Be sure to follow the signs for the Underground so you do not end up in the massive National Rail station above. Look up and admire views of The Shard, Western Europe's tallest building.
Travel two stops westbound on the Jubilee Line to the iconic Waterloo Station.
Sunset and supper
Exit the Underground into the Waterloo Station train hall. The vast hub serves commuters heading south and southwest of Central London.
Put the Southbank Centre on your mapping app, and exit the station for a short 10 min walk back to the Thames. On Fridays and weekends, a great street food market sets up in front of the performing arts venue. You'll walk up the stairs and back down on the other side, back onto the Thames path. Here, a quick walk west gives you unforgettable views of Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and the London Eye. At this point, depending on the time of year, sunset should be near.
Enjoy a leisurely stroll along the water before turning back the way you came and heading across Waterloo Bridge on foot.
You'll be dropped right into the heart of Covent Garden, where you may choose to enjoy a stroll through the market stalls.
Eventually, find your way to Soho. If you are in London on a weeknight, you'll encounter large crowds gathered outside the endless pubs. 9-5 workers enjoying a pint with colleagues.
You'll have no trouble finding a spot for dinner and drinks in Soho. Put cuisines from all over the world on a wheel and spin it. Whatever it lands on, more likely than not you'll be able to find a matching restaurant in Soho. Walk further from Covent Garden towards the popular Carnaby Street for additional options, and another chance at Dishoom.
As your night winds down, make your way towards Tottenham Court Road Underground station. Here, you can meet up with the Elizabeth Line once more, and take it westbound back to Paddington to gather your luggage and head to your hotel or return to Heathrow Airport.
So...London in a day? Without a doubt. Having a fulfilling day in one of the world's most iconic cities does not mean you need to be selective about where to go, or seek out tourist hotspots.
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