IN 24HRS: Hong Kong
Updated: 6 days ago
Summary
Hong Kong is the kind of city that takes your breath away as soon as you emerge from the train for the first time. The captivating, jaw-dropping skyline is hard to look away from. Your mind will wander as you scan your eyes across the endless array of skyscrapers set below the lush green mountainscape.
Like a kid in a candy shop, a Disney fan at Disney World. Architecture fans will be enthralled the second they step off the plane into the iconic airport terminal. That feeling, only elevated, as you find yourself in the wall of skyscrapers for the first time.
For the purposes of this post, we'll assume you arrive into HK (as it's passionately referred to) in the early morning hours, and plan to depart the next morning. Most flights departing North America leave in the late evening, arriving in HK in the early morning two days later.
While Mainland China drives on the right side of the road, HK drives on the left. Most signage is displayed in both Cantonese and English, and the familiar "look right" or "look left" street markings adorn crosswalks like you'd see in London. You'll find English is widely spoken in the central business hubs of the city, while you might find it a bit more challenging to communicate should you wander off into more residential areas away from the center.
Credit cards are also widely accepted in most of the chain shops and restaurants across the city, as well as transit (tap to pay), while cash is king in mom-and-pop businesses charging local rates for their food or merchandise.
A grandiose welcome
The warm and welcoming airport carpeting melts beneath your feet as you walk into the mega terminal after a seemingly never-ending flight from North America.
It may take you 20 minutes to get to passport control, depending on your luck of the draw with a gate assignment. Entry for US citizens is relatively easy. You may be asked to fill out a brief arrival card on your flight, but that's all.
Once you pass through the baggage claim area, stop to buy your ticket for the Airport Express train. If there is a long line, you can find an additional sales area in the back of the massive arrivals hall. Alternatively, you can buy your tickets for the train after you finish your ride, at your destination station.
The train is relatively straightforward. Three stops between the airport and the center of Hong Kong, conveniently referred to by locals as "Central," in reference to the nearby MTR (metro) stop. Right next to Central, the Airport Express station. Rather confusingly named "Hong Kong."
Take the train to "Hong Kong" where you can store your luggage and start your day. You'll be treated to incredible views along the way as you travel from the airport's artificial island into the city.
Arrive in the vast underground maze of "Hong Kong Station." Remember to pay for your train ride at the info booth before exiting if you didn't buy tickets in the airport. Luggage storage can be a challenge in Hong Kong in the early morning hours.
There is storage inside the station, but expect this to be cash-only and operate at limited hours.
Your best option will be via Bounce. If you are staying the night, consider dropping your bag at your hotel now. You can connect straight to Central MTR station, with a long walk underground through the station maze. Be sure to keep your eyes on the signs above, and memorize your subway line name. Many lines appear and sound alike for a non-Cantonese speaking traveler.
First impressions
Once you drop your bag, take the MTR two stops to Kowloon. While you can access Kowloon via the Airport Express, the area you are heading to is quicker to get to via the "Hong Kong" station you arrive at.
It's easy to get lost inside the maze of corridors that connect the large IFC Mall to both Hong Kong and Central stations. Follow signs for the red Tsuen Wan Line, and board heading north towards Tsim Sha Tsui. You'll stay on for two stops, as you traverse underneath Victoria Harbour.
Get off the train at Tsim Sha Tsui, and exit heading south towards the Hong Kong Museum of Art. Utilize the signage inside the station to choose the best exit. They are lettered, much like other transit systems in Asia. You may still get lost as multiple exits let out at malls or hotels, so rely on your mapping app.
Walk towards the plaza at the art museum, and head for the waterfront. Here, you'll be greeted with your first truly breathtaking view of the HK skyline. Start with a walk along the water to your left, heading along the Avenue of Stars, a sort of Hollywood Walk of Fame type path.
Head towards the Tsim Sha Tsui Waterfront Park, where you can continue your walk before eventually turning back the way you came when you want. Pop into the K11 MUSEA mall just off the path, by the end of the Avenue of Stars.
Once you finish in the mall, head back out on the waterfront path and walk the other direction past the art museum, towards the old clock tower. An elevated path offers you the chance to take some epic pictures of the skyline across the Harbour.
After you've enjoyed your waterfront view, head north back into the Kowloon city streets, stopping by the iconic The Peninsula Hong Kong, if even just to admire from the outside.
Life in the city amongst the hills
Walk around 20 minutes up the bustling Nathan Road until you hit Jordan Road. Here, you can browse the stalls selling fresh food, or grab a bite to eat from a traditional Hong Kong style cafe.
Get back on the Tsuen Wan Line, heading across the water again to Admiralty Station. A 15 minute walk uphill will lead you to the station for the Peak Tram. Admire the iconic Bank of China tower along your walk, which towers over the HK skyline.
Take the tram to the top of the mountain, where you'll be greeted with incredible views of the island, including the skyline below. Try your best to sit on the right side going up. You may opt to buy a ticket for the viewing platform at the top (above a building), but I felt like the view was nice as it was without going to the tourist attraction. Take a quick walk a few feet downhill on the Finlay Path for your own private viewing area of the skyline, before returning to the top.
Take the tram back down to the bottom, and walk back to Admiralty station. Take the South Island Line (light green) under the mountains to the other side of the island, for a walk along the waterfront. You'll be on the train just one stop, to Ocean Park.
While mapping apps may say to take the bus, plan to walk around 30 minutes to Deep Water Bay beach. There is a walking path nestled in the waterfront cliffs on the other side of the main road along the water. Enjoy the beach for roughly 30-45 minutes before making your walk back to Ocean Park.
From Ocean Park, travel back to Admiralty and transfer to the Island Line (blue) heading east towards Chai Wan. Get off at Causeway Bay, a Shibuya-type commercial center full of major retail chains and multi-level towering malls. Hysan Place is a mall worth checking out, with a unique layout and great city views as you move up from level to level. Don't miss Causeway Bay Crossing, where you'll be transported to Tokyo as people cross at all directions through the busy intersection.
Causeway Bay might be a great place to grab lunch if you haven't already eaten. You'll have another opportunity coming up in a little while.
Under towering skyscrapers
Walk about 15 min to the Wan Chai Temporary Promenade, along the south shore of Victoria Harbour. Be careful to follow your map as you'll have to take at least one pedestrian crossing over a major road. You may be directed into a building or mall to access the crossing one floor up.
Walk west along the promenade towards the iconic Convention and Exhibition Centre. Once you pass the convention center, you'll end up in the Wan Chai neighborhood. A park along the waterfront promenade is your indication to start heading inland towards the skyscrapers again. Put Admiralty station back in your mapping app, and head here. You will again have to cross a major road via a pedestrian overpass. Look for the red MRT signs to help guide you towards the station.
Travel one stop back to Central. Here, you'll exit at Exit E and head up over Connaught Road via the pedestrian overpass until you arrive at the Jardine House. You'll likely need to follow the overhead signs to guide you here. Head into the tower, walk towards the very end of the corridor, and down two flights of escalators. Here, you'll reach the best food court in the city (in my opinion), called BaseHall. The food court offers many different localized Chinese cuisines from different regions including Hong Kong and the mainland. You can expect a slightly elevated experience while still being able to get traditional HK classics. There are also stalls with cuisine from other nearby countries. Enjoy more food, and be sure to fill up your water bottle at the free taps.
Once you've eaten, follow the maze of corridors back outside. Put Central-Mid-Levels Escalators in your mapping app. Now, you'll get to experience one of HK's most iconic forms of transportation for the daily commute of thousands of people. The elevated escalator-walkway system changes direction depending on time of day. Given you'll likely be later into the afternoon at this point, the moving walkway style escalator system will likely be heading in the uphill direction.
Travel along the escalator system up hill. You can choose to get off on one of the many levels to enjoy the shops and restaurants along the hilly streets. I'd recommend a stop at Hollywood Road, home to a number of iconic eating establishments.
Eventually, make your way back down to Central. Get on the Island Line heading westbound, to the terminus station of Kennedy Town. Here, you'll get the chance to experience life feeling small at the bottom of some of HK's tallest residential building blocks.
Start your visit at the Belcher Bay Promenade, providing spectacular views across the water towards the mountainous Lantau Island, where the airport is located. Walk west along Connaught Road or one of the adjacent east-west streets, to experience the residential high-rises.
View from Belcher Bay Promenade & classic Kennedy Town residences; Credit: Zachary Levine
At this point, if you plan to stay the evening, you should head back to Hong Kong Station and collect your luggage to head to your hotel for check-in. You can travel via the iconic streetcar that runs along Connaught Road, or back on the MTR.
If you are departing in the evening, this is a good time to start to think about heading for the airport.
Evening in HK
We pick up back at Central. You've dropped off your luggage and freshened up at your accommodation. Street Food Central is another great food hall option if you are looking for a local meal but would like to ensure you have an English menu and can pay by credit card.
There is great nightlife and dining up the hill from Central, along the mid-levels escalator walkway. As a craft beer fan, RichKat Craft Brewing is a favorite of mine.
You can also choose to head back to Kowloon for the evening. Kowloon Taproom is another favorite, or head further north towards Jordan, where you can walk the Temple Street night market.
End your evening back at the Avenue of Stars, for a spectacular scene looking across the harbour. Reflections of the colorful Cental skyline dance across the water as boats go by. Even if you are departing this evening, if you have the time, make your way back here for your final stop in the city. The INK cafe & bar back at the HK Museum of Art overlooks the water and is a great place for a snack or a drink.
Whether you have 12hrs, 24hrs, or a week in HK, the incredible city will be painted deep in your memory for life. The blend of cultures, the awe-inspiring skyscrapers, the fast-paced environment, and the unforgettable food. There is truly no other place like it in the world.
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